As always, make sure bdsm/kink play is safe, sane, and consensual. Never leave your sub alone during bdsm play. Prepare everything needed before restraining your sub so there’s no need to step away until after you’ve released him. When using rope or any tightly fitting cuffs, always periodically feel your sub’s hands/feet/balls (whatever is tied) to ensure they aren’t cold. Cold is a sign of circulation loss which needs to be addressed immediately by removing the restraints in that area before your sub gets hurt.

Specific to this week’s tutorial, make sure your sub is balanced on the stool and that it doesn’t tip over, especially when he’s tied/cuffed to it. Although it’s sturdy, anything is possible. Safety first! As always, be very careful when using power tools. Take the necessary precautions such as wearing safety glasses. Also, when using the dildo jack, be careful, adjust things slowly, and don't use it on a sub unless you're very familiar with his limits and have a pretty good idea of what he can handle. It's all fun and games until somebody loses their ability to walk straight! ;)

Get a kinky friend to help you drill the holes necessary for this part. That should make it MUCH easier, and safer!

It's best (and safer) to get a kinky friend to help you, at least when drilling the necessary holes. Otherwise it may be difficult to hold things in place and drilling the holes at the same time.

Put the scissor jack on a flat, sturdy surface, and drill a 3/8 inch hole into the center of the top piece of the jack as shown below. If you've been building the bondage stool in parts 1 and 2 of this post, you can even use the stool for this part if you don't have another suitable surface. You may want to take a smaller drill bit and go in and out of the drilled hole a few times to smooth the edges (usually easier than trying to do this with the 3/8 inch bit, which may jam up).

Slide the jack on top of the two lower dowels of the top row of dowels under the stool. Make sure the top hole you drilled is pretty well centered when looking through the 4 inch hole in the seat of the stool, then mark 4 spots (2 on each end) in the base of the jack where you will drill holes to secure the jack to those dowels. (See the next few steps for where this is going so you have a better idea of what to do in this step).

Once you have 2 spots on each end of the jack base marked, pull the jack out, place it on a sturdy surface, and drill the holes. You may find it easier to drill the holes from the bottom of the base. If you choose to do it this way, it may be best to stand the jack up within the 4 inch hole in the seat of the stool. See the pic below for an example.

You should now have 2 holes drilled in each end. (Ignore the center hole below. I first went the route of drilling one hole on each end, which failed miserably and made the jack not very sturdy. After aborting that mission, I went with 2 holes on each end which turned out much better. So you get to save time by learning from my mistakes.) ;)

Remove the nut that is included with the Vac-u-Lock fucking machine adapter. You'll need to raise the jack a bit for this step, in order to gain enough space to insert the nut. Place the scissor jack on a flat surface on its side. Using needle nose pliers, grip the nut.

Carefully slide the nut under the top metal piece on the jack, into position right below the hole you drilled.

With your other hand, very carefully insert the threaded base of the Vac-u-Lock adapter into the hole you drilled, and line it up with the nut. Slowly turn the Vac-u-Lock adapter while continuing to hold the nut with the needle nose pliers.

Use a thin wrench to ensure the nut is tight to prevent it from gradually getting loose and causing the Vac-u-Lock adapter to jiggle (which would be bad when your sub is impaled).

Secure all 4 split ring pipe hangers to the same dowel that you temporarily placed the jack on. Slide them to the outside ends of each dowel for now. You may need to use a phillips screwdriver to tighten the screws on these rings.

Collapse the jack so it's as short as possible. Slide the jack back onto the same dowels. If the split ring pipe hangers are not slid to the outside ends, you may not have enough room to slide the jack onto the dowels. Using the items in the parts list above, there should be just enough room if you follow these instructions carefully.

Now slide the split ring pipe hangers in and line them up with the holes you drilled in the base of the jack.

To prep your 3/8-16 x 3/4 inch bolts, place one 3/8 inch nut on each bolt and tighten it until it's right under the head of the bolt. This will prevent your jack from jiggling too much when secured to the dowels of the stool. (I searched for shorter bolts, and 3/4 inch long is the shortest I was able to find, so this eliminates the gap.)

Line each bolt up with the holes in the jack base and screw each into the split ring pipe hangers underneath the base. Use a wrench to tighten them, but if you want your bondage stool to be more multi-functional, I suggest not overtightening them so you can easily transform your bondage stool for other uses.

Now your dildo jack is ready to use. But to keep it multi-functional and safe, after using the dildo jack, you can quickly remove the jack and fold in the split ring pipe hangers so most sharper areas are pointing inward.

Put the dildo jack in it's lowest position.

Choose a Vac-u-Lock dildo, put a little lube inside of it (in the hole at the base of the dildo), and slide it on the Vac-u-Lock adapter on your dildo jack.

For sanitary purpose and to make cleanup much easier, I highly suggest putting a condom on the dildo. Also, some dildos (especially realistic dildos) are porous. This is even more reason to use a condom on them as you may otherwise never get them clean and sanitary.

Then use some lube, and have your sub sit on the dildo mounted on your new dildo jack.

There are several ways to restrain your sub to the bondage stool to keep him impaled on the dildo. The easiest way is to restrain his cuffed wrists either to the front or back eyebolts just under the seat. I recommend the back eyebolts if you want to prevent him from pulling off of the dildo. Then restrain his cuffed ankles to either the front or back eyebolts near the floor level. This alone does a pretty good job at keeping a sub on the dildo jack, especially if you've cranked it up a bit so he's impaled on it even deeper. However, there are a few other, more creative ways you can use.

You could tie a rope around his balls, then tie 2 extra loops in the leftover rope. Run one to the front of the stool and the other to the back of the stool. Then use adjustable bungee cords (or just plain rope works) to secure his tied balls to eyebolts in front and back of the stool.

Once you have the bungee cords in place and you have him sitting on the dildo jack, tighten the adjustable bungee cords. Now if he tries to pull off of the dildo, his balls will pay the price. This puts your sub in a bit of a predicament. Will he choose to stretch his balls to the max and work his quads overtime trying to prevent himself from being impaled on the dildo? Or will he choose to give his balls a rest, and impale himself on the dildo?

If your sub can handle more, just use your dildo jack to crank up that dildo and impale his ass even deeper.

If you have something up high that can be used as an anchor point above the bondage stool, or maybe even behind it (could even be as simple as anchor points rigged using techniques mentioned in this tutorial post), you could give your sub a way to pull himself off the dildo jack a bit. This makes for a hot predicament bondage session.

But how long can he hold himself up like that?

If he's able to pull himself up too high and you want to make it more challenging for him, use a quick release strap around the top of his waist, loop it under the bondage stool legs/dowels, and buckle it in place. Then tighten it up to a point where he can pull up off the dildo about 50-75% of the way, but can't completely pull off of it.

And/or, you can always jack up that dildo a bit more so he has to go up a lot higher to pull off of it.

Next week: A few more extremely simple add-ons to the bondage stool. One involves drilling an additional hole. The others require no tools, just a little creativity. (And one will keep your sub's mouth occupied!)