As always, make sure bdsm/kink play is safe, sane, and consensual. Never leave your sub alone during bdsm play. Prepare everything needed before restraining your sub so there’s no need to step away until after you’ve released him. When using rope or any tightly fitting cuffs, always periodically feel your sub’s hands/feet/balls (whatever is tied) to ensure they aren’t cold. Cold is a sign of circulation loss which needs to be addressed immediately by removing the restraints in that area before your sub gets hurt.

Specific to this week’s tutorial, make sure your sub is balanced on the stool and that it doesn’t tip over, especially when he’s tied/cuffed to it. Although it’s sturdy, anything is possible. Safety first! As always, be very careful when using power tools such as a drill and especially a hole saw. A hole saw makes it easy to cut a perfect circular hole of a specific size pretty quickly, but things can slip. Keep that in mind and take the necessary precautions such as wearing safety glasses, and even gloves may be a smart move...just in case. Start slow and get a feel for how things are working before pulling that trigger all the way and letting it fly.

Start with the stool standing up on the floor.

If you performed the steps in Part 1 in last week's Tutorial Tuesday post, you should be starting with something that looks like this:

Place a tape measure across the seat of the stool and mark the center with a pen or a small starter hole using a drill bit.

Put your safety glasses on since this part is messy and will likely cause wood shavings to fly around unpredictably. If you aren't 150% comfortable with using a hole saw, or even if you are, you may want to wear gloves as extra protection from wood shavings flying as well as if the hole saw slips or jerks out of your control a bit.

Place the bit in your hole saw on the spot you marked, and start drilling your hole.

This part may take a little while (typically a few minutes to get through the wood), and you'll probably want to stop about half way through and clean up the saw dust to make sawing through the other half much easier. Try not to push your drill in too hard as that typically causes it to jam. Just let it sort of hang in the slot that it carves so the blades can lightly brush against the wood. You'll probably find this method much less frustrating than pushing in hard and constantly having the hole saw jam.

In 5 minutes or so, you should finally get through the wood and have a clean, somewhat smooth hole (but NOT smooth enough for your sub's cock/balls to hang through).

Sand the inside and edges of the hole you just created. A quick and easy way to do this is wrapping a small piece of sand paper around a pen and taping the ends together, like this (this one is after use, so it's not in the best shape anymore):

Be sure to get all edges, then carefully rub your finger along the edges making sure it's smooth. Keep in mind, your sub's dick and balls will soon be hanging through this hole. It would be much better for you to feel a small splinter, remove it, then sand the hole better, than for your sub to get a spinter in his dick or balls! ;)

This much will allow for a few more functions for your bondage stool, but if you have a 12 inch x 12 inch or larger piece of a carpet chair mat laying around, why not add a bit more? For that part...

Place the stool upside down on a section of carpet chair mat (with the spikes facing down for now). Trace a line on the mat all the way around the stool.

Trace another line along the inside of the hole that you cut in the stool.

Cut along the larger line to cut out a section of the mat that will fit nicely on top of the stool.

Then cut out the inner hole. (Important note: If using a hole saw for this part, be VERY careful! The hole saw is very likely to slip on the mat, much more than it would slip on wood. You may want to use a scissors or other tool instead to be safe, even though that sounds like a pain in the ass to do.)

Now go back to the bondage stool, place the circular piece of carpet chair mat on top of the stool with the spikes facing up. Using a 1/4 inch drill bit, drill two holes, one on either side of the larger 4 inch hole. You'll want them to be fairly centered between the larger hole and the edge of the stool, but drilled on a flat part of the mat (not into a spiked area).

When that is done and the mat is removed, it should look something like this.

Secure your sub to the stool (with or without wrist/ankle restraints)

Have your sub sit on the bondage stool. You can choose to cuff his wrists and/or ankles to the eyebolts, but depending on how you work this one, that may not be necessary. Put a parachute ball stretcher around his balls, or just use rope to tie them and leave an extra loop tied in the rope. Then use clips, carabiner clips, chain and padlocks, or just plain rope...whatever you have available to leash his balls to one of the dowels under the stool. Make it taut enough so he can't possibly stand up. Now he's stuck on the stool until you release him (and his dick and balls are open for your twisted, but safe, CBT ideas). You can even use a rope lock tie down, or this mini version of them, to restrain his balls so you can easily click-click-click it tighter to stretch his balls lower.

Regardless of how you do it, the result should your sub being unable to get off the stool, despite his struggling.

Secure your sub to the stool and hang weights from his balls

Have your sub sit on the bondage stool. For this one, you may want to lock him in leather wrist and ankle cuffs and lock those to the eyebolts. His balls will be hanging through the hole, perfect for hanging weights from. Kind of ironic, in this example I hung the hardware pack that we used to build the bondage stool, from my sub's balls. ;)

Or use a bungee cord to his cuffed wrists if you want to allow some "give".

Here's another close-up.

Put your sub in a more interesting predicament

Place the circular piece of the spiked mat on the bondage stool, with the spikes facing up, and put the carriage bolts through the holes that you drilled earlier.

Use the washers and wing nuts to secure the mat on the stool from underneath the seat.

Now you can hang a heavier weight from your sub's balls, one that he can rest on the floor at least somewhat, if he remains low enough.

Or if he sits on the stool (which means he would have to sit on the spiked mat).

If he chooses to stand up and avoid the spikes (assuming you don't have his hands cuffed to the stool), his balls will have to take the full weight.

And speaking of your sub's balls...

Work every muscle in his back and stretch his abs, or stretch his balls? Maybe both!

Have your sub kneel on the floor straddling the stool (similar to one of the ideas from Part 1 of this post), but add a bit more to put him in a tough predicament. Using 2 of these clips or a similar setup, you can rig things so your sub starts out arched backward. He can pretty easily straighten up or even lean forward, but doing so pulls a rope, which runs through a pulley to his balls. And once he pulls that rope, it clicks to tighten, but will not release even if he leans further back again. That means however much he stretches his balls, they will remain stretched at least that much until you release them. <grin>

Rear view:

Close-up:

You may want to have a towel or rubber mats ready, just in case this has the same effect on your sub as his balls are cranked lower and lower, and his legs are forced wider apart as a result. ;)

Next week: Do you have a sub that's into ass play and gets bored with the basics? The add-on to the bondage stool in part 3 is sure to put his endurance to the test!