As always, make sure bdsm/kink play is safe, sane, and consensual. Never leave your sub alone during bdsm play. Prepare everything needed before restraining your sub so there’s no need to step away until after you’ve released him. When using rope or any tightly fitting cuffs, always periodically feel your sub’s hands/feet/balls (whatever is tied) to ensure they aren’t cold. Cold is a sign of circulation loss which needs to be addressed immediately by removing the restraints in that area before your sub gets hurt.

In today’s post, a chair mat may seem harmless, and they don’t come with warnings printed all over them. However, when used for this type of play, be sure your sub is touching the mat or part of it in a stationary way, and not sliding on the mat. Depending on the type of mat you have (or the type you get for this purpose), the spikes that are designed to dig into the carpet can be fairly pointed. I’ve never seen them cause scratches or blood or anything like that just from standing on them (they aren’t THAT sharp), but if you were to slide down one like a sled on a snow covered mountain, you’d regret that decision (and you might even make it on one of those “dumbest videos” shows)! ;) Like anything else, test it yourself first (at least with your hands), make sure you know what your mat feels like on the bottom, and just be careful and use common sense.

Spiked cage:

Want to lock your sub in a cage for a while, but don’t want him relaxing too much while in it? If you’re punishing your boy, simply locking him in a cage for a while doesn’t send much of a message, does it? He can just lay down and take a nice nap. Or can he? Not in this cage he can’t.

1. Take an old carpet chair mat (or a few of them), and measure the length and width.

2. Get the dimentions of your cage as well.

3. Now that you have your dimensions of both, determine how you’d like to line the cage with the chair mat, with the spiked underside pointing in, of course. My suggestion: Focus on covering the floor of the cage and the 2 largest sides. If you’d like to cover more than that, you can, but it will likely require some/more cutting of the mat first. You can usually hang one full mat from one side and have about half of that same mat cover the floor of the cage too, without being easily removable by your sub. Here are some ideas/options to consider:

A. If your chair mat has a slimmer lip on it, like many do, you can hang it on the side of the cage by the wider part and let the part with the lip lay onto the floor of the cage. This will give your sub some hope of putting his feet, or at least one foot, in the non-spiked area.

B. Or, if you have a chair mat with a slimmer lip on one end and you want no mercy for your sub, be sure to hang it on the side of the cage by the slimmer lip so the full width lays on the floor of the cage.

C. If you want no gaps at all and no non-spiked areas for your sub on the floor or sides of the cage, then be sure to use/purchase a chair mat that’s rectangular with no lip on it.

D. Chair mats designed for carpet typically have the spikes, rather than shorter nubs. Chair mats designed for thicker carpets typically have longer spikes.

4. With about a ¼" drill bit, drill one hole on each side of the mat, on the end which will be at the top as the mat hangs in the cage. Do the same for the other chair mats/pieces if you’re using two or more (recommended).

5. Put the chair mats inside the cage with the spiked side facing in. From the outside of the cage, pull each mat up to the point you want it to hang at, then use small padlocks to lock them to the cage bars and hold them in place.

6. Have your sub carefully crawl inside the cage, then you can close and padlock the cage door(s).

7. Have fun watching your sub try to find a comfortable position while he’s locked in the spiked cage. The interesting thing about this is the longer he stays in one position, the more he’ll want to reposition himself. But the more he moves to resposition himself, the more the spikes renew their cruel torment for your sub. It’s a vicious circle. ;)

Spiked mat foot torture:

1. Take anywhere from about half to a full carpet chair mat, and place it on the floor with the spiked side up.

2. Restrain your sub in a way that forces him to stand on the mat barefoot.

Alternative options:

Without your sub watching, place the carpet chair mat on the floor with the spikes facing up. Then place rubber mats or something similar over the spiked mat. If possible, try to separate what’s over it into two halves so you can remove one side, then the other, independantly of each other. Then at some point during your play session, have your sub lift up one foot and remove one layer of rubber mats, then do the same with the other side as he lifts that foot. Then remove another layer of mats. Eventually when you remove a layer of mats, the spiked chair mat will then be exposed, to your sub’s surprise since he thought he was just walking onto nice, soft rubber mats.

Try objects spread wide apart that your sub can stand on to avoid the spikes, if he chooses a very wide, uncomfortable stance instead of his bare feet standing on spikes. It should be pretty entertaining to watch him as he moves from one position to the other, trying to decide which is worse. ;)

Bed of spikes:

You’ve probably heard of a bed of nails. I think some circus performers still do that. In my opinion, that’s just stupid, and you should never do anything like that during a play session, no matter how bad your sub has been. However, there’s a safe alternative…the bed of spikes, using an upside down carpet chair mat.

Lay your carpet chair mat on the floor or on a bed with the spikes facing up.

Position it between anchor points, at least at 2 opposite ends of the mat.

Tie/cuff your sub spreadeagle while he’s laying on the mat, or restrain hands wide and feet together, whatever your favorite position is.

Things you may want to add to this one:

Try a little tickle torture on your sub’s sensitive spots. Will he squirm trying to avoid the tickling, and risk rolling around on the spiked mat? Or will he just take the tickle torture, knowing he has no better option?

Try a nice slow edging, to the point where your sub wants sooo badly to thrust his cock into your hand to get more stimulation. But will he, knowing that every time he comes back down, it will be on a bed of spikes? Or will he take the oh-so-frustrating slow edging at your pace and deal with the fact that he’s dying to cum?

Spiked chastity device:

This one will take a very flexible carpet chair mat, and some patience. But if you’re up to the task…

Cut out a rectangular area of the chair mat. You’ll probably want it to be about 4-6 inches one way, and the other dimension really depends on the girth of your sub’s dick and how much you want to allow it to grow. This varies greatly from one sub to another, and from one goal to another. If you want to prevent him from getting even a little hard, cut a shorter length of the mat. The length will need to be pretty precide for this to work though.

Drill small holes, 2 in each end as the mat piece will wrap around your sub’s dick (read further for more clarification). Make sure the holes will line up when wrapped and the ends are joined.

Wrap the mat around your sub’s soft dick, spikes in, and use the shoelaces or thin rope to tie the ends together. Now when your sub gets hard(er), he will feel the spikes. But will this make him go soft, or even harder?

Next week: Have you been wanting to lock your sub in chastity, but not sure where to start? This guide should help.