As always, make sure bdsm/kink play is safe, sane, and consensual. Never leave your sub alone during bdsm play. Prepare everything needed before restraining your sub so there’s no need to step away until after you’ve released him. When using rope or any tightly fitting cuffs, always periodically feel your sub’s hands/feet/balls (whatever is tied) to ensure they aren’t cold. Cold is a sign of circulation loss which needs to be addressed immediately by removing the restraints in that area before your sub gets hurt.

Specific to this week’s tutorial, use common sense when choosing parts. Make sure the plywood you use is strong enough to support the body weight of any guys you’re going to have laying down on it. And although the steps below sort of take care of this part, make absolutely sure there are no sharp edges or areas that may cause your sub to get splinters. Nobody likes getting a splinter in their finger. Can you imagine one in your dick? NOT cool! So be safe and do everything that you can to protect your sub.

1. If you’re purchasing a sheet of plywood at your local home improvement store, be sure to take advantage of any free cutting services they offer, and come prepared with dimensions of how long and how wide you want the table to be. Or, grab a large piece of plywood that you already have around your home, and make it work.

2. Lay the sheet of plywood across two sawhorses, and carefully get on top of it and lay down. Make sure it’s strong enough to hold a guy laying down on it. If it is, mark the approximate location where your sub’s dick and balls would hang through.

3. Using a 4 inch hole saw, cut a hole at the spot you marked in step 2.

4. Using a ½ drill bit or whatever you have that’s capable, cut out some notches on either side of where the 4 inch hole is, just above and below the hole.  If you don’t have a better method, you can simply use a ½ inch drill bit and drill a few holes next to each other in a line, then sand them down a bit with the drill bit and sandpaper as necessary.

5. You’ll want these notches to each be about 1 ¾ inches long x ½ inch wide, and around 17-18 inches apart from each other (or a bit wider than your sub’s waist).

6. Imagine where your sub will be laying across the bondage table and repeat step 5 at other intervals alongside of where will be laying. This will allow more restraint points to keep him in place.

7. Clean up really well, making sure there are no wood shavings left in the area, to protect your sub from getting splinters. You may even want to use duct tape around the 4 inch hole, as an extra precaution (but we’re going to use something else to cover the wood in the next steps).

8. Lay a treadmill mat on top of the plywood and unroll it, making it fairly even on all sides.

9. Press down on the treadmill mat to feel where the 4 inch holes is. Using a knife, cut a large plus sign in that area where the hole is so you can then push something through the hole, keeping it protected by the mat.

10. Feel for the notches that you previously cut. Using a knife, cut slots in those areas as well.

11. Take a utility strap and push it through one of the slots in the wood from underneath, then push it through the slot that you cut in the mat just above it. Take the other end of that same strap and push it through the notch opposite of it and the slot in the mat just above that one. Repeat this step until all remaining slots have a utility strap threaded through them.

12. Have your sub lay on your new bondage table, facing down, arms at his sides, with his dick/balls pushed through the center hole. You can use a few additional utility straps to run around his chest and arms to keep them held together. Then use the remaining straps to strap him down to the bondage table. You won’t want him moving much for the relentless edging and cock teasing to come! ;)

Now you’ve basically got your sub’s dick and balls locked in place on the other side of a wall, almost as if they’re in another room. He can’t see them, and he’ll have no idea what you’re going to do to them next, even if he’s not blindfolded. This greatly heightens his sensitivity, and you’ll probably want to take full advantage of that! ;)

Maybe you just want to tease his cock, stroke it, get it hard.

Or maybe you’ll want to mount a few few adjustable wand holders to your new bondage table, put some vibrating wands in them, and position them so they’re held right up against his cock…relentlessly buzzing away!

With a little strategic rigging, you’ll have his cock rock hard before long, and he’ll begging for mercy. But will you give him any? You know this is what he really wants, deep down. But will he be able to handle all that you give him, knowing he has no control over it?

ROCK HARD! Loving what’s happening, but afraid of what’s to come, AFTER he cums! Will you stop the relentless edging? Or turn the wands up even higher for some post-orgasm torment?

Maybe add a few vibrating cock rings.

Or add a silicone masturbation sleeve, and let the nubs inside the sleeve work his cock into a frenzy.

When you’re done playing, make your bondage table disappear so your visitors won’t know of your kinky ways. Just store the plywood under a bed, in your attic, or against a wall in your garage, basement, closet, or anywhere that’s out of the way. You can put the treadmill mat back under the treadmill. You probably won’t even be able to see the slots that you cut in it. If it’s under an exercise bike or other equipment, the slots still shouldn’t stand out as it closes up nicely when laying flat. And as for the sawhorses, well, nobody looks at sawhorses and thinks, “Wow, you kinky fucker!” ;)

Doms and subs: If you try out any Tutorial Tuesday posts in your own playrooms, we’d love to hear how it goes, and even see some pics of your creations. Reblog with your comments, experiences, and pics of your own work.

Next week: Need to keep a smartass sub quiet? There are many ways to do that. Traditional gags, of course…plus a few others.